Monday, September 15, 2014

Tuolumne Meadows

I'm hanging out in Lee Vining, taking a rest day. Max is working. Our original plan was to head to the Hulk first because the valley is too hot. After climbing yesterday we started having doubts about my ability to make the four mile approach to the Hulk. I injured my left foot a couple weeks back. I can climb normally but the approaches and descents are aggravating my foot. We might end up changing our plans and climb stuff close to the road. I will know in the next few days.

Lot of this, how exciting!

Please, let me (one day) be strong enough to french free that!

Yesterday we climbed two routes in Tuolumne. The Lamb dome via On the Lamb (5.9 150m/4P) and Fairview dome via Regular route (5.9 300m/12P). We climbed the Lamb backwards. The traverse pitches are crazy! I fell at the end of the crux section and found myself dangling two meters from my last piece on a blank slab. I had to ascend the rope to get back up. The traverse is as exciting for both the leader and the second. I recommend this route.

The 100 meter horizontal crack of The Lamb Dome is easy to spot.

Juggy crack and a slippery granite slab with no feet. I'm almost finished with the crux section.
We simul-climbed most of Fairview dome so 12 pitches became three and the climb took us two and half hours. This route is one of the 50 Classic climbs of North America. The climbing and position were incredible. As we went higher the climbing got easier. I enjoy simul-climbing when I'm climbing terrain I'd feel comfortable soloing but don't feel comfortable taking the risk of falling. For me it's more exciting and rewarding than seconding in TR. It's almost like I too get to lead the route. The flow is also incredible because the climbing is interrupted only if the leader runs out of gear or if the leader wants a belay mid route.

The Fairview Dome from Western Front.

Descending the granite slab in the backside of the Fairview Dome.

Pretty Tuolumne granite, smooth and slippery.

The altitude (Tuolumne is in about 3000 meters) is also affecting my performance. It hit me when we were hiking up to the base of the Lamb Dome and I struggled getting up the hill. It makes perfect sense since I'm coming from the sea level. I had to stop several times during the day to catch my breath on 5.6 terrain. It was obviously frustrating for me. I learned to pace myself towards the end of the day .

Time to pick Max up from work. Cheers!

Siskolle kiitos lähetyspipasta!
Breakfast stop

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