I'm trying to make it happen next Thursday. Very simple, climb 27 pitches in one day. Originally Angel's idea. I'm lucky because Max doesn't need
much any convincing to do this with me. Here are the rules of the Birthday game:
1. I must lead 50%. My birthday, my 27 pitches. But it's more fun for both if we share leads. That's a lie. It's more fun for ME if Max puts ropes up when I get tired.
2. I don't have to send. But no pulling on gear unless it's aid. Aid counts.
3. Each pitch can only be climbed once. Area specific rules apply.
4. Extensions don't count. This is tricky and I'm still not sure if I agree with this rule.
5. Bouldering and gym doesn't count. Area specific rules apply.
6. Alan Watts has the last word on what counts as a pitch. Bring the guidebook!
7. Cake for lunch.
There is more than 2000 climbs at Smith rock so it's easy to find enough pitches. I'm thinking some kind of combination of Red wall, Lama wall, Dihedrals (Cinnamon slab area) Morning glory, and the Gorge would work best gradewise. It makes sense to simul-climb easy multipitch climbs as much as we can and then do single pitch climbs in two or three walls that have a lot of climbs close together. If YOU want to get some climbs in for your birthday, I'm happy to climb with you! Or if you want to tick 27 boulder problems, I'll spot you.
Moolack didn't happen last week so we went to Smith instead. Smith is a special place for many reasons. This time climbing made me think about the ethics of setting up new routes. Me, Max, and Mike warmed up on a new 11/11+ route next to Dreamin'. It starts with a couple insecure moves on crappy rock to fun slab/ledge climbing and finishes off with huge, manufactured jugs. The park has very progressive ethics when it comes to climbing. Read the history. I think the route is enjoyable and worth doing. Enough about that. Me and Angle went to work on our projects and both of us sent first go.
My shoulder is a little tweaky so I'm taking it easy for the next couple days. Right. I fly home in two weeks. Hyvää pääsiäistä kaikille! Säästäkää mulle mämmiä!
|Angel sent Magic light (pic) and Blasphemy the same week.|
|Mike working on Scarface again.|