Sunday, April 13, 2014

I have a couple projects

First, I want to become a rodeo clip -master. I don't want to be the sometimes-when-I'm-lucky-I'm-able-to-stick-it-7th-go-but-it's-probably-backclipped-so-I-better-get-a-stick-clip-anyway type of stickclipper.  It's nice to have the first draw clipped if the crux is low or if the first bolt is high. I have limited experience with other climbing areas but compared to the climbs I've done in Finland, mostly in Mustavuori and Viitapohja, bolting at Smith is more spaced and often times scary for me. If in doubt, bring gear. Kantti (10c) in Olhava in other hand seems like a Smith climb when it comes to bolting. And the position too is actually very similar to the Smith aretes. Anyway.

Like I mentioned before, Panic Attack is an exceptionally well bolted route. It had fixed draws because a local climber was working on it. I couldn't make the rodeo clip. But I could make the clip from the ground by jumping a little bit. Not as cool. I gave two lead burns to it and got the moves down with Wally's help. We stayed until sunset.

Wally rodeo clipping and getting psyched to work on the last climb of the day: Churning (13a).

Time to go home? Gotta brush the holds first!

Second, I want to get mentally stronger. My problem at the moment is that I love top roping. But at the same time I know it's not going to get me where I want to go.

This hat should set me up for success. Angel belaying Mike on Vision (12b).

Third, I want to send Panic Attack. It's a climb that got me so psyched that I don't mind trying it many times! I'm calling it a project. I've never had a project that I've worked on as consistently as this. I've tried leading it four times the past three days. Today my first burn included: two falls, one pull on a draw, and two takes. On my second burn I one-hung it. Crazy, eh! Though, one-hanging means just that. It does not mean I will send. But I definitely enjoyed the progress I made!

Mike on Scarface (14a)

The communal stick clips are sometimes tricky to find. Like this one. So tricky.

Now I need to rest for a day or two. I'm going for a run with Angel this afternoon and in the evening I'm getting a ride to Eugene. Tomorrow me and Max might go to Moolack. Cheers!