Friday, April 11, 2014

Three days of Smith rocks

Yesterday was day one. For me it was a pick-a-project day. I went to the park with Wally and Max. We started at the Christian Brothers. The warmup was called Blasphemy (11a awkward). I thought I hadn't done the route before. When I started climbing at Smith I could not remember the names of the routes. Now I'm familiar with most of the names, I just can't remember if I've climbed them or not. Blasphemy is one of those climbs I forgot. It's fun but a bit awkward. Next I hopped on (TR) the climb next door: Panic attack (11d/12a). Tricky stemming and very well protected. I've never seen bolts as close together at Smith. Fun climb!

Next to the Dihedrals. Max put a rope up on Heinous (12a) and I finally found a way to do the crux move! Progress! For me the crux of the climb is getting to the holds which lead to the crux. It's reachy and thin. I found a foot that makes the move doable. Next I tried a line that people call a girl climb: Latin lover (12a). Friends of ours were working on it so I asked if I could do a quick TR run. It's thin, crimpy, and balancy. I agree that it's probably easier if you have small hands. I fell while unclipping the last draw, right at the crux. Clipping would be scary. Latin lover felt much easier than Heinous since making the moves did not require beta and the holds were way less greasy. Just crimp the nubbins!

A year ago Max was working on Latest Rage (12b). He offered me a TR burn and beta. I spent most of the time hanging on the rope and skipped the hardest moves (every other move) by pulling on the rope. Yesterday I got closure. I figured out how to make the crux moves and climbed all the way up. Later in the evening I watched Mike work on Scarface (14a). I believe he three-hung it but I could be wrong.

My skin says, Emma I want to climb more!

Now I just need to pick a project. Max is working in Eugene over the weekend so I decided to stay in Bend and climb for another two days. I still have unfinished business in the Morning glory too. Let's face it, I only have unfinished business at Smith. There is too many fun rock climbs to choose from. And top roping is so much fun! Have a great weekend y'all!

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