I HAVE MOVED!

I've moved my blog to a new website. Thank you everyone for this amazing adventure. I can't wait to have many more with you guys! Continue reading www.emmakarjalainen.com.

Hugs,

Emmu

Bye bye Blogspot!

Why I climb

YES, FRIENDS, I SENT THE THESIS! I WILL GRADUATE. It has been a long process, three years. During that time climbing has become, not just a form of recreation I love to do, but a way of life. For the past three years, I have devoted most of my time to climbing or working to save up, so I can go climbing. My climbing partners have gradually become my family and my priorities in life have changed tremendously. I used to have ambitious career goals but none of them seem important now.

I am very fortunate for getting my education in climbing in Oregon. Adapting to the blissful, stress free life style while living in Eugene made me realize what makes me happy. I was inspired by people who chose their jobs based on what their ambitions outside of work life are. In Finland, I had done the exact opposite. I had no time for sports other than running because I was committed to school and work.

This is what commitment is today:
cleaning boulders in Pinsiö, Finland in 2013.
Photo by Tuomo Turunen.

I learned to love indoor climbing. Photo by Mika Silander

For me, climbing has always been about doing what I thought is impossible for me. I love challenges. I love being scared. I love not knowing what is ahead of me. I love getting humbled by climbs. I love long, committing days on rock. I love the adventure. I love my dirty, smelly self after not showering for a week. Or a month.

Climbs I thought were impossible. This is the Hulk in 2014.

I love the nights spent under the stars. I love wrapping my cold, numb fingers around a hot cup of coffee in the morning. I love living out of a car. I wish I had a bigger car. Oh well, I live out of other peoples' cars. I love to make my climbing partners laugh. At me or with me, I don't care, as long as people around me are having fun.

I love waking up in random places like this. The Alabama Hills!

I love meeting new people and hearing their stories. I am blown away by the friendliness and hospitality of the people I have met along the way.

Lauri and I preparing dinner for the gang in Kustavi. Photo: Rami Valonen

This is what hospitality is like in Turku. Thank you Matti!

I've been asked how I've manage to support this life style financially. It has not been easy to get to where I am now, but I would not change a day. For the past three years, I have saved up every penny and learned to get by with a very little. I have worked three jobs at a time. I have chosen climbing trips over new clothes, proper gear, movies, dining out, job security, and having my own place to name a few. I have a long list of things I used to think are necessary for my happiness. As it turns out, they are not.

My spork. Photo by Max.

My pants. Photo by Max.

My gear is swag, used, borrowed, or bought because it was half off. In March 2015 I got a pair of Black Diamond Down Patrol climbing pants. That day I realized, for the first time in my life, I had bought a piece of clothing designed specifically for climbing.

I tried sending the French Blow in my cool climbing pants. No send. :D
Photo by Rami Valonen.

I have been injured. I have cried because I thought my body would break. I do PT exercises. Every. Single. Day.

Getting ready to climb in Pärkänvuori, in Kustavi. Photo by Rami Valonen.

I have struggled with fitting into the grade driven climbing culture in Finland. I climb because I love climbing. Not because I want to send or because I aim for the hardest grade. It is the key to my success and my strength as a climber. I work hard to be free from the fear of failure. Unless the gear is really bad, the fall is not safe, or the weather is coming in... hehe.

Every day spent outside, climbing with my friends is a win.

Two weeks ago I was having a blast in Bohuslän, Sweden.

Climbing Mallorol in Bohuslän. Katja, imagine if I had not gone to Oregon!

My next goal is to take a tiny break from this laptop. I'm off to Norway with Rami, Alan, and Liisa. Our goal is to find dry climbing. Cheers!

The belay-granny says greetings Bohuslän!

Klara Vappen in Kustavi!

"Asuttekste täällä?" is what the Kustavi local Matti first asked me and Hanna when he passed us at Hopia. "Hehehe, it does seem like we live here."

The Tampere trad chicks had taken over Kustavi again. We were supposed to go to Olhava but we ended up bailing to Kustavi since the probability of dry climbing was better there. Kustavi does not disappoint!

The May Day team spandex.

Talven kuivattama lähetys-kuikka.
A black-throated diver.

It was really cool to see many people out at Hopia on Friday. The Kustavi locals are super friendly. I am very grateful for the gear and beta, thank you!

Liisa working on her project Kylmä hönkä (6+).

Matti working on a project.

I climbed most of the day with Riikka. She devotes most of her time to bouldering. In two weeks she is embarking on a kayaking adventure with our climbing buddy Alan. They are kayaking across Finland.

The only new route I tried was Astronautinto (7-). I gave a surprisingly good onsight burn and hung twice at the bottom. Then I took a whipper on Pasuuna (6), from a perfect hand jam close to the top. Great success!

Riikka seconding Pioneeri (5).

Arno on Dead Ringers eng (7),
Piri on Pasuuna (6). Pic: Hanna

Suvi sending Pioneeri (5+). Pic: Hanna

The flamingos say hello to Alan from Lootholma! Pic: Hanna

Saturday we headed out early because rain was forecast according to Yr.no, Foreca, and Ilmatieteenlaitos. Me and Liisa started at Nostalgia. After the warmups we practiced crucial skills for Norway; climbing fast by alternating between free climbing and french freeing. Read: We came no way near sending, so we had to come up with an excuse for why we where french freeing a classic finger crack.

Soul sisko (6-) is good, Peura (6-) is excellent!

Nostalgia (7-) is very nice. Pic: Hanna

Nostalgia did not go free.

A doughnut from Talouskauppa. Thank you Joonas!

Still no rain so let's continue to Uhrikallio.

Riikka seconding Sähköpaimen (5+), the best hand crack in Kustavi if you ask me.

I have never climbed an offwidth before. Offwidth is for climbers who don't like using holds and who enjoy getting bruised up. Or who want to climb a classic like Freerider (5.12d). Dream big! I managed to climb up the offwidth Kirnu (7-), which was the highlight of my day. Emma's long journey was captured by Piri and Riikka.

Rack for the Kirnu: #5, #6, and a double sling+draw

Ajovirhe! Asetin jousilaitteen liian lähelle reunaa. Hups, ajovirhe! Suomea!

I got stuck many times at the top because my helmet would not fit in. I was suggested to loose the helmet. I thought long and hard about doing it. And then I thought about my mum. Thinking about mum while climbing is the worst! Sorry mum. I decided to stick with the helmet. It is awkward, but doable.

It finally started raining when I was making last moves in Kirnu. I was soaking wet after I got to the top. I tried walking, but the wet moss made the top slippery. I literally crawled 9ft to the nearest tree. Not my proudest moment. I came down to change my clothes and Henna went up to belay Hanna. Hanna was doing great, taken into account that she has never climbed offwidht before either. The rock was still wet so, after giving a good effort, she decided to come down.

Hanna got lowered with the help of Arno, Joonas, and Riikka. Great work team! No harm done to the rope.

I feel you Henna.

Arno shows us how it's done.

Arno is the offwidth machine. We gave him a trad name for it. And yes, we all have trad names, but I'm saving them for later.

Joonas belaying Arnoffari. Pic: Henna

Arnoffari in an Offline-simulator. Pic: Riikka

Piri sending Sähköpaimen (5+).

Piri in Sähköpaimen (5+) and Henna in Kirnu (7-).

Meeri sending Sähköpaimen. It's just so good!

I recommend checking out the beach. Pic: Riikka

Sunday we visited Hooperi, Vartsalan Vanha Koulu (huge doughnuts and cinnamon rolls!) and Pohjavuori.

In Hooperi I climbed Lohikäärmetee (6) and in Pohjavuori I ate a cinnamon roll.

Hanna fought her way up Hullu Hevonen (6).

Hanna's spooky hands.

Sima, a traditional May Day beverage.
Thanks Meeri!

Liisa climbing Hullu Hevonen (6).

Joonas giving Oinas (7-) a go.

Arno climbing Unohdus (6+).

Time to head home. Next week we go to Bohuslän!

The lovely ladies, Hanna, Piri, and Liisa on their way to the mainland.

The 28th Birthday Bingo in Kustavi

My 28th birthday was this weekend. I decided to do what I did last year: climb a pitch for every year. I miss long days on rock so climbing 28 pitches is the perfect birthday present for myself. Me and my friends were conveniently going to Kustavi anyways, so I was set up for success. We left Tampere 8am Saturday morning and started racking up at Kräkiniemi around noon.

I got this bingo card from my friends. Thank you!

I had a designated belayer, my lovely friend Katja.

This girl knows how to give a belay!

I also had a bunch of lady friends supporting my cause.

Liisa teaching introduction to crack climbing.

Piri knows the moves, Lea and Jatta are learning.

Topropes were very welcome. I managed to get one toprope in for every lead in Kräkiniemi. Lucky me, my friends are rope guns. Most of the routes are 5s.

1. Amelie oikea L

2. Amelie vasen TR

3. Amelie both cracks TR

4. Masto L

5. Majakka TR

6. Mörköränni L

In Mörköränni (5-).

Katja likes Mörköränni too!

Key to success, in my opinion, is to: Wear comfy shoes with comfy socks. Rack up once and stay racked up. Climb fast, and be willing to pull on gear if a move doesn't go. Eat and drink when ever possible. Pick routes based on what you can comfortably free climb. And most importantly, to have fun and make sure your partner is also having fun.

7. Lumikko L

8. Kuutamo L

9. Vanha rouva TR

10. Juuret TR

11. Apollo TR

12. Itä-blokki oikea L

13. Itä-Blokki vasen L

14. Varjo L

15. Punainen planeetta TR

16. Myrsky viinilasissa L

Hanna climbing Punainen planeetta (6-)

Hanna's happy belayer, Henna. >D

Thank you for the TR Hanna! Me TRing Punainen planeetta. Pic: Katja

I got 15 routes in from Kräkiniemi in three hours. Linking routes next to each other worked pretty nicely. Toproping saved time too. We took a one and a half hour lunch break before continuing to Hopia.

5:30 pm at Hopia. Nine more to go.

At Hopia I started with the classics: Lastenhuoneen avaimet (4+) and Pioneeri (5+). This was the first time I felt tired. Pioneeri was very, very hard for me. 10 more pitches seemed like a lot and I was afraid that not having bolted anchors would slow things down. I am very grateful for Katja: She insisted on pulling the rope so I would recover in between climbs.

5:30 pm I was a little tired. Pic: Liisa

I got the flow back after Aallon helmi (5). I have not climbed most of the 4s and 5s in Hopia so I actually had a lot of fun climbing new routes. Ropes got stuck only twice - success!

Hanna and Henna climbing Pioneeri (5+). I feel you Henna. Pic: Hanna

17. Lastenhuoneen avaimet L

18. Pioneeri L

19. Aallon Helmi L (on niin helmi!)

20. Hopeasurffari L

21. Chili tee L

22. A-kuppi L (helmi!)

23. Paha kala L

24. Säkkipilli TR

My belayer bushwhacking after pulling the rope. The rain is coming.

25. Veli Hopia L

26. Idanha L

27. Suursyömäri L

28. Kotkan kynsi L (Oh my... had I known. :D)

Bonus route

29. Myyrä L

Whoops! I climbed one too many. Oh well.

After topping out the 28th route Myyrä at 9:20pm. (really the 29th route)

We had burgers for dinner and apple gobbler for dessert. Thank you everyone! I got a cool birthday present too, a Mega Jul! Katja, please teach me to use it. Tök tök tök.

I forgot my sleeping pad. Katja's pad has a hole. Poor us.

Climbs were still partly wet at 2pm Sunday afternoon.

Liisa's Hopia tour. Let's go eat doughnuts. Pic: Lea

Thank you for the fun weekend ladies! <3