Monday, June 9, 2014


I've been wanting to go to Bohuslän since I read the Climbing article American meatballs. I finally made the trip happen. Liten spännande!

We left Tampere around 5pm Wed evening and were at Galgeberget racking up at noon the next day. Four days of climbing, four areas: Galgeberget, Häller, Hallinden, and Välseröd. No rest days. Finger cracks, hand cracks, ow (=other way, duh), face climbing, dihedrals, chimneys, aretes, yosemite style slab, and tall routes! 20-55 meters. Single 70 worked perfectly for me and Liisa. We did Ettan and Prismaster in two pitches and walked off.

Bohuslän reminds me of Kustavi, except everything is bigger. Imagine Indian creek in granite. See Mountainproject or 27 crags for more info about access. Topos are sold at Klättertorpet. Tick warning!

Two hours of driving done, five days to go with me, Liisa, and Piri. Rami is psyched!

Highlights of the trip: Traveling with Rami, Piri, and Liisa. Making new friends from Rovaniemi, Helsinki, and Oslo. Daily showers (!?) and Rami's cooking. Sharing a tent, rack, and leads with Liisa. Placing a #4. And then the climbing.

4+ slab crack at the right side of Galgeberget. It's the best single pitch 5.6 I've ever done. Perfect introduction to trad leads.
Bagatellen 6+ fun movement and well protected route.

Liisa getting ready to warmup on a 6 at Galgeberget. Badass!

Liisa about to take a whipper on Bagatellen 6+
Tor Line 7 was my favorite, tho I did not send. It's a roof crack. Haven't seen one since the creek.
Mallorol 6- Liisa sent with style. I cleaned with style.
Tramboline 7 We toproped this one. Thank you Rami for putting it up! And for cleaning it.

Me about to take several falls on Tor Line. Pic: Rami

Rami sending Mallorol

Piri learning to chimney
Mari 6- Short slab finger crack, a great warmup recommended by Jaana.
Pekkas diplomtur 6 Steep, juggy, and tall!
Ettan 6 Vuxenklättring says the book. I say liten spännande! Positioning was amazing. Liisa sent the bottom, I fell at the upper section. We forgot one belay device but managed to figure things out and keep going thanks to Liisa. Go team!
Prismaster 6- I fell at the bottom, Liisa sent the upper section. There is a pattern we follow.
Afterburner This 7- has it all. Rami put it up. Me and Liisa TR it once. Piri TR it three times. Pumped?

On our way to Hallinden.
Järnkaminen This 5 was super challenging for me. Getting tired.
Muffins 7 Janne sent and me and Piri cleaned. I love dihedrals! I love TRing!
Vilskudd 6- was the last route of the trip. One of the classics. I did not send with style. To avoid rope drag on this one place less pro and extend more than you think you need to. Thank you for the support guys. :)

Janne sending Muffins!

Rami climbing something that made his armpits bleed. Vilskudd is to the right of the wide crack system.

Camping with a view

I plan on going back to Bohuslän later this summer. This weekend I went to Kustavi with the Tampere trad people. World class crack bouldering! Janne and Hanna-Maria went after it! I went for the hungs.

Piri and Päksy doing yoga

Hanna-Maria just sent Kalliomyyrä and one hung Säkkipilli. Janne is sending Lastenhuoneen avaimet!

The last route of the day. Super happy about the no hands rest! Pic: Hanna-Maria

 Tack till er alla! The end.

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