Bohuslän!

I've been wanting to go to Bohuslän since I read the Climbing article American meatballs. I finally made the trip happen. Liten spännande!

We left Tampere around 5pm Wed evening and were at Galgeberget racking up at noon the next day. Four days of climbing, four areas: Galgeberget, Häller, Hallinden, and Välseröd. No rest days. Finger cracks, hand cracks, ow (=other way, duh), face climbing, dihedrals, chimneys, aretes, yosemite style slab, and tall routes! 20-55 meters. Single 70 worked perfectly for me and Liisa. We did Ettan and Prismaster in two pitches and walked off.

Bohuslän reminds me of Kustavi, except everything is bigger. Imagine Indian creek in granite. See Mountainproject or 27 crags for more info about access. Topos are sold at Klättertorpet. Tick warning!

Two hours of driving done, five days to go with me, Liisa, and Piri. Rami is psyched!

Highlights of the trip: Traveling with Rami, Piri, and Liisa. Making new friends from Rovaniemi, Helsinki, and Oslo. Daily showers (!?) and Rami's cooking. Sharing a tent, rack, and leads with Liisa. Placing a #4. And then the climbing.

Galgeberget:

4+ slab crack at the right side of Galgeberget. It's the best single pitch 5.6 I've ever done. Perfect introduction to trad leads.

Bagatellen 6+ fun movement and well protected route.

Liisa getting ready to warmup on a 6 at Galgeberget. Badass!

Liisa about to take a whipper on Bagatellen 6+

Häller:

Tor Line 7 was my favorite, tho I did not send. It's a roof crack. Haven't seen one since the creek.

Mallorol 6- Liisa sent with style. I cleaned with style.

Tramboline 7 We toproped this one. Thank you Rami for putting it up! And for cleaning it.

Me about to take several falls on Tor Line. Pic: Rami

Rami sending Mallorol

Piri learning to chimney

Hallinden:

Mari 6- Short slab finger crack, a great warmup recommended by Jaana.

Pekkas diplomtur 6 Steep, juggy, and tall!

Ettan 6 Vuxenklättring says the book. I say liten spännande! Positioning was amazing. Liisa sent the bottom, I fell at the upper section. We forgot one belay device but managed to figure things out and keep going thanks to Liisa. Go team!

Prismaster 6- I fell at the bottom, Liisa sent the upper section. There is a pattern we follow.

Afterburner This 7- has it all. Rami put it up. Me and Liisa TR it once. Piri TR it three times. Pumped?

On our way to Hallinden.

Välseröd:

Järnkaminen This 5 was super challenging for me. Getting tired.
Muffins 7 Janne sent and me and Piri cleaned. I love dihedrals! I love TRing!

Vilskudd 6- was the last route of the trip. One of the classics. I did not send with style. To avoid rope drag on this one place less pro and extend more than you think you need to. Thank you for the support guys. :)

Janne sending Muffins!

Rami climbing something that made his armpits bleed. Vilskudd is to the right of the wide crack system.

Camping with a view

I plan on going back to Bohuslän later this summer. This weekend I went to Kustavi with the Tampere trad people. World class crack bouldering! Janne and Hanna-Maria went after it! I went for the hungs.

Piri and Päksy doing yoga

Hanna-Maria just sent Kalliomyyrä and one hung Säkkipilli. Janne is sending Lastenhuoneen avaimet!

The last route of the day. Super happy about the no hands rest! Pic: Hanna-Maria

 Tack till er alla! The end.

Kustavi Weekend Aka Likat män Kustaviin kiipeen trädii!

This is my first post about climbing in Finland. Ha! My absolute favorite crags in Finland (so far) are Olhava (tall trad), Kustavi (a lot of trad), and Mustavuori (tall sport). This weekend I took girl friends of mine to Kustavi. They are all new to crack climbing so it was fun to expose them to the style of climbing I love, but don't get to do often enough here. Let's face it, nothing is as cool, rad, fun, scary, badass, sexy, and awesome as trad climbing. Climbing sport at your limit is cool. Climbing trad at your limit is impressive. Onsight trad at your limit and you gain my eternal respect plus I bake you as many cookies as you want. Or apple pie. This is my humble opinion.

Kustavi climbing area is a perfect place for a beginner crack climber. Go there! Short routes, a lot of easy to moderate climbs, easy to bail, and mostly well protected. Jammi.net has an awesome database of the routes and access. Knowing how to build a natural/trad anchor is a must though. Tick warning!

We started at Kräkiniemi. I held a short tape glove clinic first and then we went after it! Mörköränni (5 TR), Amelie (5), Varjo (6- TR), Lumikko (6), and Punainen Planeetta (6-). I almost got shut down by the first move of Lumikko because I didn't have small enough gear with me to protect the crux from the deck. Fortunately Eero had a tiny stopper and he placed it for me from the ground. I placed the draw. We all started laughing and came to the conclusion that I just lost the onsight.

Kiia-Riikka laybacking Punainen Planeetta (6-). We made it into a multipitch. Riikka took the second pitch (ledge traverse R, 2m) to the rap anchor. Pic: Katja

Next to Hopia. I wanted Katja, Kiia-Riikka, and Hanna-Maria to climb Säkkipilli (6-) because it's the most straight forward "easy" hand crack at Hopia. I put up a top rope on Lasten huoneen avaimet (5) and Säkkipilli (6-). After Säkkipilli I cleaned two routes I've never been on: Vappuheila (6- Liisa sent!) and Kylmä hönkä (6+ a proud send Eero!). Kylmä Hönkä was the only climb I almost did not get up - my favorite route of the day!

Liisa is sending Pasuuna (6), Suvi is cleaning Vappuheila (6-)

Katja jamming Säkkipilli (6-) Pic: Hanna-Maria

Kiia-Riikka jamming Säkkipilli (6-) Pic: Hanna-Maria

Kylmä Hönkä (6+ TR) was my favorite climb of the day! Such a battle! Pic: Kiia-Riikka

Tero and Alan were doing the climb-50-routes-in-24-hours-challenge and if I remember correctly they were at 30 when they came to Hopia. Only leads counted as a pitch, they had to second some routes in order to clean them. Some french freeing occurred. They climbed until 1am and continued the next morning. 52 routes total in 24 hours. And a couple impressive onsights. Way to send guys! You get apple pie!

Tero and Alan were crushing some routes. 52 to be exact. They were the sending team!

We are the tape glove team!

"Burritos for dinner, apple pie and vanilla for dessert!" Pic: Katja

"And there is our creme fresh..." Leave no trace! Pic: Katja

Next day we went to Pärkänvuori. I picked routes that friends of ours recommended: Sirgelimies (4), Rikun reitti (5-) and Norjalaisten reitti oikea (5). The routes were super fun and Katja, Kiia-Riikka, and Hanna-Maria were all psyched! Rikun reitti was everyone's favorite. Norjalaisten reitti turned into an epic because I managed to get myself and my gear stuck at the crux. Fortunately Eero and Pyry rapped past me and gave me a #3 and a #4. Epicing at the crag (I can not emphezize the word crag enough here) is always fun and educational.

Morning! Pic: Hanna-Maria

Hanna-Maria on Rikun reitti (5-) Pic: Katja?

Kiia-Riikka on Rikun Reitti (5-) Pic: Hanna-Maria

Katja cleaning my mess on Norjalainen Oikea (5) Pic: Hanna-Maria

Kiia-Riikka chalking up for Norjalainen Oikea (5)

The drive home was cheerful. TikTak was playing. This upcoming weekend I'm doing the first course in a certification program called KTO which is a prereq for taking the Sport climbing instructor course. Nothing makes me happier than seeing people get psyched about climbing! So I've decided to pursue getting certified. Next week I'm going to Bohuslän in Sweden. Then Lofoten in Norway. And if I get my thesis done this summer I will go to Yosemite in the fall. And I'm moving and working/saving up somewhere in between. Keeping busy in Finland!

Thank you for the amazing weekend ladies!

Smith Rock Spring Thing!

I spent the last day of my stay volunteering for the annual Spring Thing clean up at Smith rock. This was my third year. There were about 160 volunteers in the park that day, most of them local climbers. I worked in Mike's project. We did trail maintenance such as building retaining walls at the Phoenix/Llama wall area. We started working at 9am and were done around 2pm. Some of my friends went climbing afterwards. I got enough climbing in the day before so I hung out and did the free yoga class with Corrie and Jamaica.

Dinner was served at 5pm. Burritos! I got hired as a server last minute because the volunteer staff were running short. I master the smearing of the beans now, psyched! After the dinner Ian Caldwell went through figures and showed us photos taken that day. Our project was probably the best documented one because me and Corrie went a little crazy taking action shots with Ian's camera. Next Mikey Schaefer held an inspiring slide show about his travels and FAs in Patagonia. I want to climb in Patagonia. I just need to get a little stronger first.

I didn't win anything in the raffle but I got swag: Metolius hand balm and chalk. Perfect. Time to go to Finland home. Thank you Oregon! I can't wait to come back!

Climbing Friday: I'd love to TR that! It's Crossfire 12b.

I wonder who I could ask to put it up for me...Hmmm.

Max's new rope is so... clean! It's a Sterling Fusion BiCol 9.4 70m, but really a 74m since it got us all the way to the ground on Crossfire.

Tourist.

27/27 Sent!

I climbed 27 pitches for my 27th birthday at Smith yesterday. We planned where and what we'd climb the week before and ended up doing almost everything according to plan. The biggest challenge was to minimize the transitioning time between climbs. We decided to climb as much as we could at three walls: Red Wall, Phoenix, and Morning Glory, which all have a lot of moderate (5.8-5.11a) climbs. When it comes to simul-climbing, simul-rapping, and doing anything else while belaying except belaying, these are varsity techniques/reductions of redundancy within the system and should be used with care. That said, yesterday was one of the most fun days I've had on rock!

We started relatively late because we got home late the night before. We were at the Red Wall by 9:20am. I had a double rack, stoppers, about 25 draws/slings, belay gloves, micro traction, a couple lockers, cord, and a grigri. We climbed with a single 70 and simul-climbed and simul-rapped to save time.

Moscow (5.6 trad 3P) Got scared leading this one.

Bay of the Pigs (10d 2P) I was at the top of my game! Such a fun route!

Super slab (5.6 trad 3P) So much fun!

Orgasmophoria (10c 2P) I'm tired. I'm hungry. "Max, I will belay you to the anchor and you can take the second pitch!" Not my proudest moment.

First pitch of Orgasmophoria

10 pitches done. Next to the Phoenix area. Max took over the leads and we were able to climb 7 pitches in two hours. We ate while belaying. And I also ate while climbing.

Phoenix (10a) Crimpy

Drill' em and Fill 'Em (10a) Wandery and crimpy. I'm starving.

JT's route (10b) One of the best 10bs in the park!

Hissing Llamas (5.8) Best 5.8 in the park!

Llama Enlightenment (10c) Angel onsighted this a couple weeks back. Juggy!

Wannabe Llamas (5.8) Short and most awkward 5.8 in the park. Not fun.

Entering relativity (11a) I'm not sure if this is really an 11a but it sure felt like it.

17 pitches done. Next to the Morning glory. We got 6 more pitches in and were at 23 pitches by 7:15pm.

Gumby (10b) Harder than I remembered. Getting hungry again.

Light on the Path (5.9) At this point climbs started melting together. I don't remember anything about the climb except that Wally came over and gave me a Sin Dawg while I was belaying Max. Thank you Wally!

5 Gallon (5.8) Super classic! Take a number.

9 Gallon (10c) Best 10c in the park! There are three sets of anchors on this route. It could count as three pitches. But since the extensions don't count I had to go all the way to the top. Angel put it up. I struggled with the first move. Getting tired.

Mike put up Magic light (11a) for Max and Angel put up Purple Headed Warrior (5.7) for me. My first lead at Smith!

Cool ranch (11b/10a) ...but we both skipped the crux by staying left. Hehehehehe.

Sin Dawg to the rescue! It has 1600 calories. Wally sent Latest Rage (12b), yeah!

4 pitches to go! We started the last climb of the day Zebra/Zion (10b sport/trad 4P) around 7:30pm. It's one of my favorite routes at Smith. Max led four pitches with one rack in one pitch. I'm impressed. We run the whole rope out which worked perfectly for what we were trying to do: be done before dark. I topped out sometime before 9pm. We took a picture, posted it, and scrambled down Cocaine gully in our climbing shoes.

The last pitch of Zebra/Zion, the best 5.9 crack at Smith.

Angel and Mike had left early to get 5 dollar pad thai (Mondays only) from Thai O in Redmond. We ate and hung out in the parking lot. I drove us to Eugene that same night and went to bed 1:00am. The end.

Oh, one more thing. I spent my actual birthday at the coast with Max's family and friends. Corrie and Thad had contacted my mum via fb to find out what kind of cake I like. Chocolate cheesecake was spot on! Thank you everyone!

The Krazy Glue Trick

I cut my finger on Cool Ranch (11b) last Sunday. It happened right before the crux and I had to climb up and clip the anchors to clean our draws. Blood everywhere. I cleaned the holds with my bandana and felt stupid for not having my brush with me. JV. Bring the brush, Emma, bring the brush. Taping the tip of my finger doesn't really work because the tape comes off. Fingertip sweat! But without the tape the cut wont heal and I can't climb. Krazy glue to the rescue!

Krazy glue + tape works!

The next day I glued the tape on my finger. And it worked! I added some glue mid-day and the tape didn't come off until we were done climbing. To give you an idea of how durable Krazy glued tape is, here is the list of the climbs I did. Top roped, duh.

Overboard Full (11d) Pumpy warmup, but once you get it wired, it's not that bad.

Magic Light (11a) Best 11a at Smith!

Cool Ranch Full (12a) Hardest move on the route is the 11b move.

Wartley's Revenge (11a/b) Classic trad! Next time I must lead it.

Shoes of The Fisherman (11b) Trad, Max onsighted, I hungsighted. Bird poop! A little loose at the top. Mikey Schaefer walked past us and was stoked to see someone on the route. Apparently it doesn't see many ascends and when he did it 15 years ago, he couldn't get anyone to second it.

Heresy (11c/d) Boulder problem with bolts.

3/4 of Full Heinous (12c) I got half way up the extension and run out of juice. If you blow it on lead, you might end up taking a 50-footer. That's a 15 meter fall. It impresses me that Full Heinous used to be protected with two bolts and gear. Thanks to retrobolting the 30-meter route is now protected with nine bolts. I wouldn't mind if someone threw a couple more in there.

I used the same Krazy glue trick yesterday too and sent Latin lover (12a) second go! The falls I took last weekend did the trick. It felt liberating to climb above the bolt and not be scared. On my first go I fell twice at the top, before the crux. I got psyched, I almost had it! I took a 15 minute rest. Second go felt relaxed and solid. Max, Wally, Scott, and Shcristophe were all cheering for me. I decided to take advantage of the awesome sending flow and give Cool Ranch a burn. Once again I got shut down by the crux move. ONE 11b MOVE. This time I brushed the holds on my way down. Humbled by Smith.

The Whipper Challange

My goal for Sunday was to take falls on Latin lover (12a). It's a super fun route: balancy, thin, and sustained. The crux for me is to stay cool and climb above the bolt. None of the moves feel individually hard, just insecure, sustained and some of the clipping stances are not great. I tried leading the route a week ago and couldn't get past the third bolt because I got scared. This Sunday I climbed past the third bolt and took about five intentional falls before clipping the anchor. Progress!

Mike is having fun belaying me?

I'm getting after the Latin lover!

The route is 21 meters tall and is protected with 6 bolts plus the anchor so it's a bolt every 2-3 meters. It's standard. The headline for this post is a little misleading since my falls also are very standard. I just like to call them whippers because it sounds more rad. But they are just falls. Whipper is a long fall. I weight about 53kg and by adding a grigri, belay glasses, belay gloves, and a belay puffy I can make 54kg happen. Barely. If my partner takes a whipper I often find myself dangling right below the first draw. Max took a whipper on Heinous (12c) yesterday. He fell right at the 8th bolt so about 8 meters in the air (4 meters between bolts) plus rope stretch. I went up 3 meters. So it was a 11 meter fall plus rope stretch.

Next I challenge you! This pre-clipping epic was captured in the Cocaine gully Saturday evening. What went wrong?

Que?

Solution: pull the rope and stickclip the next bolt instead (the hanger was too small to fit two draws).